Tuesday, June 24, 2008

June 2, 2008: Ephesus and Kaynaklar, Turkey

We passed yet more ruins on our way to Kaynaklar. Ephesus, containing the best Roman ruins East of the Mediterranean, and an important city throughout the Hellenistic era, Roman Empire, and Byzantine Empire, as well as being a center of early Christianity (Saint Paul lived there for awhile and the Virgin Mary's final home is nearby) was nice enough, but I'm frankly rather tired of looking at crumbling, ancient structures. I'm jaded, I admit it, and my eyes are starting to glaze over after seeing so many impressive archeologically significant sites on this trip.

Another theater:More beautifully carved stone:Fabulous statues, architecture, design, blah blah:It's all Greek to me:Discreet archway:Understated stone boulevard with columns and decapitated statue:Mauling yet another ancient wonder:
My uninspired attitude carried over to our climbing destination, as well, because it would have been pretty exciting to go to Kaynaklar earlier in the trip. The crag setting is nice and the sport climbing is decent enough, but Kalymnos is a tough act to follow and Kaynaklar is not even close to being in the same league. We tried to climb, but holds felt slippery, the bolts were awkwardly placed, the rock quality wasn't that great, it was hot, and, let's face it, thinking up vague, insubstantial excuses every day for not climbing is extraordinarily tiring. So we had to come up with other ways to entertain ourselves.

Thankfully, Dolphin met up with us again carting his tattoo equipment (he had been unable to go to Greece). When he made a moving speech that first evening about how much he enjoyed being with us and how he had racked his brain thinking of a special way to show his appreciation for the way we had accepted him into the fold, the last thing I was expecting him to offer was free tattoos. Tattoos?! I was initially skeptical, envisioning Dolphin in an ominously lit dingy room with a single rusty needle dipped in the ink from a broken ball point pen jabbing away at a twitching arm. Clearly I've watched too many prison movies. My medical fears were put to rest, however, when he whipped out a fully professional and sanitary kit. At least nobody would be dying of gangrene. My artistic fears were put to rest when his mother showed up (she lived nearby in the city of Izmir) and displayed a very impressive seahorse that Dolphin had tattooed on her leg. Game on!

While everyone discussed the endless variations of image, size, and location of a tattoo, Henry was already prepared to add to his collection with a design that Gail had created.

Partially finished. Notice how it says "Hot Rock":

Hannah had a gecko that Gail designed put above her ankle, and Teresa had the same gecko put on her wrist.

Teresa winces while Dolphin goes to work:Teresa proud of her new acquisition. :

It was a good thing that it took four days to do those tattoos and that Dolphin was getting tired of squinting in the dim light of BiRT because I came very close to getting myself permanently inked. If ever there was a time to get a tattoo with a good back story, that was it. I'll just have to continue relying on my scar stories.

We couldn't spend all our free time jumping up and down on the steps of BiRT trying to break Dolphin's concentration, so we turned our attention to other pursuits. Sam channeled his inner fashionista and spent an afternoon painting his toenails,

Call now for your very own pedicure by Sam!:I finally stopped procrastinating after 10 months and organized my crap,

How did I wind up with more gear than when I started? And don't ask about the Karate Kid headband -- it's a long story:

and Teresa, Tazzy, and George tirelessly worked on their bodybuilding poses.

Something to aspire to: Teresa at almost 40, Tazzy pushing 50, and George at a solid 60:
A kidnapping, however, abruptly stopped all the fun and games. George had brought along with him the mascot from his mountain search and rescue team back in the UK, an engaging little fellow named Monty that team members had taken turns carting around the world. Though quiet, slightly faded, and rather limp, Monty never complained and was universally liked by everyone on the trip.

Monty and George in happier times:

Then one day someone snatched him from his usual perch at the front of the truck facing out the windows and left this note taped in his spot.

"We have Monty. We want 6 beers or it means certain death. Details follow soon. No cops."

A pall descended upon the truck as we all realized that we had a full blown crisis on our hands.

George searched desperately for Monty, organizing search parties and frantically trying to locate six beers should the kidnappers be serious. The second note that appeared made their intentions clear.

"Drop ransom on roof at midnight and Monty might live."

In these tense times George contacted me to aid in his search and I accepted his plea for help. These were professionals and I knew that threatening the suspects with burning sticks in their eyes would be useless, so I decided to fall back on solid science. The ransom notes had not been handled by anyone other than the perps therefore fingerprints would be the best way to (ahem) finger them. After dusting for prints with some generously supplied eyeshadow, I called up the suspects and used yellow Savlon antiseptic spray (hygiene first!) to capture their fingerprints. Hannah was unusually nervous, dancing from foot to foot and chattering quickly while avoiding eye contact. Come to think of it, other members of the trip had been exhibiting some behavior that was out of character: Aidan had been especially tired and Danny had been shockingly quiet. Hunches, though, were not enough.

Unfortunately, I didn't have sufficient time to analyze my findings before we set off suddenly for Istanbul and George was forced to leave the ransom on the top of the truck. A drunk looking Monty was returned unharmed the following morning.

"Thanks for the beers. Ha Ha."

Unable to contain their glee, the Terrible Three of Hannah, Aidan, and Danny confessed to their heinous crime. Life returned to normal except I was racked with guilt over the fact that if I had only acted on my hunches I could have saved George six beers (and maybe drank them with him). Always listen to your gut!

Friday, June 13, 2008

May 27, 2008: Kalymnos, Greece

Kalymnos is The Promised Land for climbing. No two ways about it, the island definitely has the most spectacular sport climbing I've seen on this trip. There are 15+ kilometers of cliffs along the rugged coastline that people have developed into over 40 crags with 900+ routes. Unbelievable. The incredible thing is that there are so many more places to develop on this picturesque island.

The town of Masouri where we stayed as seen from one of the numerous caves: Yet another gorgeous morning:
It was a confluence of events that made Kalymnos into what it is today. The main industry on the island used to be sponges that locals harvested in abundance from the sea and when that collapsed in mid-80's it left many of the local economies in ruins. Shortly after, a visiting climber noticed all the amazing cliffs and started developing them. As word spread about the area and climbers began flocking to the island, the locals realized that the crazy people who wanted to climb the rock could be a reliable money source and embraced the sport. Today, the thousands of people who come yearly to to test their mettle on the extraordinary limestone cliffs are now the economic mainstay of many communities on Kalymnos.

The famous Grande Grotto is an enormous cave filled with tufas:Nathan on a climb inside the Grotto. It's only slightly overhung...:Nathan giving it everything he's got:Danny sweating it up another climb in the Grotto:And streeeeetch!:Danny in the money shot:No, this picture is not in the wrong orientation -- it really is a roof and yes I am hanging almost upside down. I don't really know what possessed me to jump on this French 7b+ route, but it was incredibly fun:Where's my next foothold again??!!:Ah, forget it, I'm just going to hang here:Wheee! The scenic loweroff:
Kalymnos climbers are probably the fittest tourist set on the planet and also likely the dorkiest. As sure as you can count on a gorgeous sunset,

Masouri at sunset:
you can also count on the distinctive two-stroke whine of fleets of scooters twice daily. In one of the more amusing daily migration patterns on Earth, scores of climbers outfitted with helmets and precariously balanced packs swarm out from the tiny towns dotting the coast every morning to the one road connecting the crags, maxing out the rpms on their rented scooters as they push their geek machines to the limit on the twisting, hilly road. Of course, Diana and I also rented a scooter one day and joined the dork parade. It had to be done, really, especially because of my new-found love for scooters.

Masouri in the far distance:The world's smallest cabin boat. It couldn't have been more than 7 feet long:

Since we were in Greece, Diana and I figured that it was only appropriate to host a wine and cheese toga party on the pool deck of our guest house.

Uh, yeah, that's the view from the pool:The scene before the soiree:
We tried to secretly slip anonymous invitations under everyone's doors, but failed miserably. I put an invite under one wrong door by mistake, Diana was spotted leaving another invite, and our tag team effort of making small talk while I surreptitously placed an invite on top of a room mini fridge was painfully transparent. Oh well. It was still loads of fun and the array of toga designs was pretty impressive.

L to R: George, Sam, Aidan, me, Danny, Hannah, Teresa, Angie This was as close as we could get to approximate a column. Top down L to R: George, Danny, me, Hannah, Aidan, Teresa, Diana, Sam, AngieLet's get a closeup on the incredible cheese happening on top, shall we? George doing his best to look beatific while Danny and I do our best to look like devoted acolytes. Or something like that:Don't we look like a bunch of ridiculous statues:Danny and Teresa kick it up a notch:Tazzy and Angie discover they are both genetic freaks and can touch their nose with their tongues:Aidan depressed about his arm? Or just a sympathy ploy?:Ready to hit the town:
The one black mark against Kalymnos has to be the local custom of setting off explosives for celebrations. I'm not talking firecrackers here, I'm talking full on dynamite. As in hitting the deck when you hear the first explosion industrial strength dynamite. Birthdays, weddings, graduations, a youngster's first lost tooth -- all apparently are appropriate explanations for the massive excavation holes dotting the hillsides. Ok, maybe the holes aren't there, but they should be since the explosions are strong enough to be accompanied by shockwaves. I seriously thought about taping the windows in our room because they actually bulged with the shockwaves. Another reason to always travel with duct tape. Thankfully, the perpetrators seem to either lose steam or pass out by 1:30 a.m., so it is possible to get some sleep at night.

The positive marks for Kalymnos far outweigh the negatives of obnoxious random explosions, however, and I fully intend to be enjoying the months of November and possibly December eating my weight in feta cheese while knocking my head against the tufa filled caves of this awesome island.

Crutches or live for Another Day???:
Look me up if you happen to be there -- I'll be the dork on the scooter.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

May 21, 2008: Bafa Lake, Turkey

Bafa Lake is an interesting mix of ruins, cows, excellent bouldering, and very nice locals (the pension owner let us camp for free).

Hot Rock style camping. You can just make out the orange tent dome on the roof next to the electricity pole on the far right:
There was also an extraordinary amount of insect life, including some creepy spiders that looked like fat black jellybeans teetering along on stilt legs. They had an unhealthy fascination with my tent and I woke one morning to see 12 of them doing their best to join me in my sleeping bag as they crawled over the mesh searching for a way in. At first I thought they weren't too bad -- mostly because they are pretty slow moving. Then I discovered that they feasted on each other when I saw one actually dragging another one across the road. At first I hoped it was some type of rescue mission, but closer inspection revealed that spider 1 was indeed sucking the fluids out of spider 2 while moving. ugh. Talk about eating on the go. Spider cannibalism is one step removed from eating human flesh, really (or at least in my mind), and it became clear that they were vicious, man-eating arachnids. They were next to impossible to avoid and I found myself constantly staring at the ground as I attempted to gingerly step around them.

Spiders were completely inescapable at Bafa Lake. Several people almost walked into this lovely specimen, which was about the size of my hand. Not my palm, my entire hand. There was not a chance in Hell that I was going to put my hand next to that behemoth to give a sense of scale. You'll just have to take my word for it. There was another, marginally smaller version of the same species that made for some cool pics on this bouldering problem.

One of the best boulderers in Turkey, Goktug Aydemir (AKA "Curly" because none of us could pronounce his name) puts on a clinic:I don't look nearly as cool on the same problem...:
Which just so happened to be called "Yellow Scorpions." So named because the fellow who found the problem noticed he had a yellow scorpion on his foot while he was climbing. If it's not one thing, it's another around these parts.

Thankfully, we were only in Bafa Lake for a day and a half so I didn't have to deal with the creepy-crawlies for too long. Hannah, though, had to deal with more than a few mosquito bites for awhile.